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Purchase your Body Solder Kit by clicking on links below!
Eastwood Body Solder Kits - Click Here Eastwood Lead-Free Kits - Click Here
Step by Step Soldering Process (For leaded and lead-free body solder)
1) First, the steel needs to be clean bare metal, free of any coating,
plating, or rust. A Nylon Cleaning Wheel like our item #31095 does a gentler job of cleaning the surface than a
grinder, without unnecessarily removing metal. Be sure to clean a few
inches beyond where the solder will be applied. Wipe the surface with
PRE Painting Prep or acetone to make sure the surface is
grease and oil free.
2) Apply the tinning compound (or flux if you are using the lead-free solder). This is typically a fairly thick mix of tin powder and a zinc chloride. It usually requires a little stirring to get all of the solids evenly distributed. Once stirred, the flux is applied, slightly beyond where the solder is to be applied. The surface is then heated with propane or MAPP gas torch until the fluxed surface takes on a silvery brown foam look. When this happens, take a clean white cotton cloth and wipe away surplus flux. You should be left with a bright silver tinned coating.
3) Clean the tinned surface. Most of the cleaning is done by using a clean white cotton cloth dipped in hot water. This is most effective while the surface is still hot from the tinning process. It surprising how much residue comes off with hot water. The residue is basically a type of salt. It’s beneficial to follow by scrubbing the surface with a dilute solution of baking soda and water to neutralize any acid residues, and then thoroughly water-rinse.
4) Apply the solder. The heat from a propane or MAPP torch works fine here. Basically train the heat on the surface and the tip of the solder bar with the solder bar touching the tinned surface at about a 45 degree angle. As the tip of the solder bar starts to melt, deposit nodules of solder on the surface. Try to apply a bit more solder than what you think will be required to level the surface. It’s possible to hold a few bars together when filling large areas. It’s much easier to remove surplus solder than to try to add additional solder. The tendency is to over-heat the surface and then all of the solder ends up on the floor.
5) Lube the solder paddles with the tallow or lube that came with the soldering kit. The lube prevents the soft solder from sticking to the paddle. Heat the solder gently until it slightly dulls and starts to look a little smoother. Immediately, gently, use the paddle to push the solder into the basic shape you need.
6) After the surface cools use the flat flexible file to refine the shape. Even though this file is a coarse 8 teeth per inch, it leaves a smooth surface. The solder files much more quickly than the surrounding steel so check the shape frequently to prevent undercutting the solder. It’s important to remember that lead-based solder should not be sanded because it puts fine toxic lead dust in the air and imbedded abrasive can cause corrosion. Lead free solder can be sanded with appropriate eye and respiratory protection.
7) Once the surface has been shaped to the proper contour, wash the repair area and the surfaces above the repair with a baking soda and water solution to neutralize any residual acid from the flux operation. It’s a good idea to follow this with a wipe down using Fast-Etch Rust Remover. This will eliminate any small pits. Wipe the surface with PRE Painting Prep or Acetone and dry with a clean soft cloth.
8) At this point a skim coat of polyester body filler can be applied to get the contour exactly right.
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2008 Eastwood Garage Episodes - Shown on the Speed Channel
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The Eastwood Company - 263 Shoemaker Road Pottstown, PA 19464
Customer Service: (800) 345-1178
Technical Questions: (866) 759-2131
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